Il Cellese

In 2013, proprietor Sergio discovered a forgotten winery beneath the 18th-century Maltraverso villa: three tunnels dug into the tuff, abandoned after the Second World War when the village used them as bomb shelters, their original terracotta floors intact. He restored them to become the cellar of Il Cellese — nine hectares of organic Sangiovese on galestro at 450 metres in the Valle d’Oro, with oenologist Mirko Niccolai guiding a philosophy of very long ageing. Organic certification arrived in 2018.